Winter Escape to Central Cuba
January 28 - February 11, 2008

[VARADERO PENINSULA]
[Barceló Marina Palace Resort] [Varahicacos Ecological Reserve]
[Ambrosio Cave] [Cayo Blanco]

[HAVANA]
[Old Havana] [Hotel Nacionale] [Tropicana]
[Cathedral] [Boduegita del Medio] [Cigar Shop] [About Town]

[CIENFUEGOS]
[Central Park] [Hotel ?]

[TRINIDAD]
[Pottery Shop] [On The Streets]

[ZAPATA NATIONAL PARK]
[Guamá] [Playa Girón] [En Route]

[OTHER]
[Cars] [Flora & Fauna] [Souvenirs] [Churches] [Music] [People]
[Beer et al] [Miscellaneous]
[Copyright]

[HOME]

Background Music: Chan Chan

Choose other background music: Besame Mucho, Perfidia, Guantanamera, Hasta Siempre, Quizas Quizas

Travel routes

VARADERO PENINSULA
Barceló Marina Palace Resort [Top]
This was only the 3rd time in all my travels that I went to an all-inclusive resort. This resort was okay, but I don't think I'd revisit. If you truly care to know why, my "official" review can be found on tripadvisor.com, where you simply search for the resort by name, then scroll to Heatmonger's comments.
View from Room 2014 Southeast view from Faux-lighthouse Southwest view from Faux-lighthouse Northwest view from Faux-lighthouse Spot the solar panels View from the main lobby Shrooms Life's a beach Cool clouds Beckoning Faux-lighthouse Barcelo bartender Barcelo security Buffet waitress
Varahicacos Ecological Reserve [Top]
When I travel to a country that's new to me, I like to visit "the big city" for the insights it offers into the national character, its history, architecture, nightlife, and cultural mosaic. I also like to get off the beaten path and see "real life" by visiting smaller rural communities, and preferably sharing stories with the locals over a beer or whatever. Finally, a visit to a protected area, be it a national park or some other reserve, gives me a taste of the nation's ecological heritage. One reason I chose the resort that I did in Varadero was its relative proximity to this ecological reserve. I was told that the trail is about a 45 minute walk, but I spent almost four hours tiptoeing among the cacti, geckos, mangroves, and dolomite formations.
Entrance Trailhead
Ambrosio Cave [Top]
Cueva Ambrosio is located near the Varahicacos Ecological Reserve, about 7 km from the top end of the peninsula. Outside, the cave area's most prominent feature is the highway speed trap and its police tower. Inside, the most prominent feature is the four species of bats that "hang out" there. Cryptic cave art provides a cultural history story hinting at an archaic Muslim connection. Openings in the ceiling were just frequent enough to let some light inside this 200+ m deep cave complex. Bats may be virtually blind, but they were still skittish to my presence. At first, I had to remind myself of what the guide at the gate told me: these bats were fruit or insect eaters, thus harmless to me. I was glad that the place also lacked any noticeable accumulations or smell of guano. As a naturalist, this cave was definitely a highlight of my trip.
Cave entrance
Cayo Blanco [Top]
The day-long Catamaran tour included on-board refreshments, a stop for snorkelling, and a day of partying on the island of Cayo Blanco. Unfortunately, rough water made the snorkelling part a limited pleasure. The power of the currents at the snorkelling spot surprised me. The island itself was a private club for 150 of us that day.
HAVANA
Old Havana [Top]
Hotel Nacionale de Cuba [Top]
Tropicana Nightclub [Top]
Before Vegas showgirls, before Radio City chorus lines, ... there was the Tropicana. If song & dance turns your crank, this is a show for you. Everybody gets a cigar (gents) or a flower (ladies) on the way in. Each table of four gets a bottle of rum. Well-choreographed and a killer big band sound! Lots of nice bodies too. I stayed for a half hour, just to say I'd seen it. After all, I only had one night in Havana, and this musician was more inclined to checking out some loud, smoky Cuban jazz bars.
Cathedral [Top]
I haven't been to an old Christian town yet that didn't have a prominent, historic, sometimes famous, church. Here's Havana's version, replete with masonry blocks carved out of petrified coral reef (reef dolomite?).
From across the square Exterior Exterior Interior Exterior masonry Masonry close-up
Bodeguita del Medio [Top]
Bodeguita outside Bodeguita inside Mojitos at attention
Cigar Shop [Top]
Come in here, dear boy, have a cigar ....
Romeo Y Julieta Rollin' one up Doing brisk business Don't stop the presses Tried it .... but I didn't inhale
About Town [Top]
CIENFUEGOS
Central Park [Top]
Nice building restorations encircle this "central park". Benches, statues, and numerous species of trees are sprinkled around the site. Alas, our guide gave us only 20 minutes to explore.
Wood carver
Hotel ? [Top]
This is probably one of the most ornate buildings in the country. The ornamentation, while admittedly pretty, is a bit too much for my taste. Maybe it was supposed to be some sort of Taj Mahal, but it reminds me more of a wedding cake.
TRINIDAD
Pottery Shop [Top]
Some nice stuff here, but how do you get it home unbroken?
On The Streets [Top]
This town is a World Heritage Site, albeit one in need of a bit of tidying up. Ancient streets of natural cobblestone set this place apart from the other Cuban towns/cities I visited. I suspect the locals have a bit of a love-hate relationship with the tourist traffic, something I have found to be the case in almost any "tourist town". This is not to say that the Cubans here I met were any less friendly. I spent quite a while looking around for a small piece of cobblestone that I could actually pry from the road. Such stones have become a cheap, but cool, souvenir for me over the years.
Restaurant courtyard Medieval lunch The tree Trinket market Carved cowhorn
ZAPATA NATIONAL PARK
Guamá [Top]
This area of the national park boasts a crocodile hatchery, boat tours, trails, rich and varied avifauna, and interpretive displays, as well as a couple of restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops. The boat tour took us out across a freshwater lake to an island with a repro native indian village and some inspired sculptures. En route, I saw anhingas, pelicans, terns, egrets, and warblers. I suspect this place gets pretty buggy in the summer. The terrain reminded me a bit of the Everglades.
Welcome poster Painted turtle? Krike! Soaking up some rays
Playa Girón [Top]
I'll not forgive myself too soon for neglecting to bring along my snorkel gear today. As such, I only got to watch others enjoy the views of craggy geology and brilliantly coloured marine life. I tried my best to capture some fish shots from above. Somewhere beneath the surface of this pond is a large underwater cave. Saltwater and tropical lifeforms notwithstanding, this area and its geology was very reminiscent of Tobermory and the upper Bruce Peninsula in Ontario.
En Route [Top]
Drove through lots of countryside, and a few towns, on the way to Zapata. We stopped at several plantations to sample the local produce, including bananas, oranges, and sugarcane. Cutting my own sugarcane was a nice mini-experience and my "harvest" kept me sucking and chewing for over an hour.
Come Mr. Tallyman ... Orange plantation Palms at dusk Palms at dusk Old and older Street scene Dog chow would make me very happy Street scene Street scene Street scene
OTHER
Cars [Top]
Okay, I admit it: I'm not a car buff. But one can't help but appreciate this aspect of Cuba. I'll rely on my brother-in-law, who is into cars, to tell me what they're called. I did make sure that at least one taxi ride in Havana was in one of these hulks. One tour guide told me that these vintage cars are preferred over more modern ones because they have minimal electronics. A Cuban mechanic can perform miracles when the issues are mechanical ... parts can be had or improvised. Its the electronics in newer vehicles that are more problematic.
Flora & Fauna [Top]
Pelican Crab Dolphin Gecko Cactus Painted turtle? Soaking up some rays
Churches [Top]
Churches stand among the architectural and historic icons of many cities around the world, but especially in Catholic places.
Cienfuegos Cienfuegos Trinidad Havana Havana Havana
Souvenirs [Top]
A staple part of any country's tourism industry, there's a trinket for everyone. If I didn't already have them all, Cuba would have been a great place to stock up on Latin percussion ... but that's just me.
Still life of memorabilia.
Music [Top]
Santana was my first influence towards a love of music that blends Latin percussion with guitar. In this respect, Cuba was a pilgrimage of sorts, and taking my nylon-string along was compulsory. Some songs you hear so often, they qualify as signature tunes of Cuba and basically become your trip's soundtrack.
One of these things is not like the others ... Viva la guitarra More cowbell! Trio at Ambos Mundos Hotel rooftop bar Havana outdoor café A turn on the skins ...just want to bang on the drum all day When worlds collide Jammin' with Barcelo's Cesar Ernesto Barcelo lobby jam Plaza Americain New mates at the Plaza Americain Backstage at a Varadero street party Dancers in the disco No trumpets allowed - guitars only zone Oliver giving 'er in the lobby
People [Top]
The resort staff, and Cubans everywhere, were friendly, outgoing, and often georgeous people. The other travellers I met were mostly Canadian (60%), European (25%) and South American (15%). The generally-appreciated absence of Americans has helped keep much of Cuba's tourism landscape from turning into over-commercialized crap.
Barcelo bartender Barcelo security Danay Author and new friends Author and new firends Cigar poser in Trinidad El Pitbull and our guide School kids Flirting
Beer et al [Top]
Nothing special in the beer department. All 4 brands were light and drinkable, though they tended to go flat rather quickly. Native rum is everywhere, including brands like Havana Club, Cubay, Vigio. Cuba libre por favor!
Mayabe, Bucanero, Bucanero Max, Cristal The ubiquitous rum Cuba libre Coping with an imminent return to winter
Miscellaneous [Top]
Bracelet Hide-upholstered chairs Real Cuban chicas Varadero street party Some modern conveniences Medieval light fixture Varadero beach Born to be mild



Copyright ©2008 by Oliver K. Reichl. All rights reserved.